Turtuk – Changing Nationalities

Around 90 KM ahead of Diskit and Hunder, the main tourist attractions of Nubra Valley, in Ladakh lies Turtuk – a small village at the Indo-Pak border in Ladakh. It lies just before the line of control and has been on the other side too. On the banks of Shyok River, this peaceful village has been affected by Indo-Pak wars more than other places.

When the Radcliffe line was published on 17^th August 1947 Turtuk along with other parts of Jammu and Kashmir was not acceded to any country but both the counties were given roads to access the princely state. What happened with Jammu and Kashmir post that has been unsettling to this date, but we will not make it a history lesson of India-Pakistan partition and move on to Turtuk.

17^th August 1947

So in August of 1947 the people of Turtuk who had been part of India for the time immemorial became a part of an Independent Princely State. All of a sudden they were no more Indians or were they? They had not still come out of this dilemma when the first Indo-Pak war happened.

October 1947-December 1948

The two newly independent nations started their first fight in October 1947. This was the first war for control over Kashmir and it saw Turtuk becoming a part of Pakistan. From India to part of independent state to Pakistan. Even during this war India had first claimed Turtuk but then Pakistan captured it during the war. The villagers of Turtuk had changed nationalities multiple times in less than 2 years as rest of the parts of the two countries were settling in their new countries. This was the case with a lot of other parts of Kashmir but Turtuk had more in store.

Indo-Pakistan War of 1971

One of the shortest wars in the history, this war is remembered for splitting of Pakistan and creation of Bangladesh. But in this 13 day war Turtuk was again affected and India gained control of this area post this war. Mohamed Ali tells he was 9 years old at that time and does not have much memory apart from the fact that everyone was hiding and then in a couple of days Major Rinchen of Indian Army came and convinced everyone that they are safe and should return to their homes in the village.

Since then the Turtuk has been a part of India. Ali further recalls that the place was initially called Duktuk but with time they did not even realize when it’s name was changed to Turtuk. The elders of the village mostly found in and around the Mosque area have more painful tales to tell. Most of the families in the village were left incomplete every time the 2 nations fought in the region, not because of deaths but because of separation. Mothers of some villagers were left on the Pakistan side while fathers, brothers and sisters of others are on the either side of the border. The elders recall that some of the villagers who are now proud to be Indian have served in Pakistan army. The Government school operates here with regular Ladakh school timings of 10am- 4 pm. The harvest from October is stored for the winters.

Turtuk was opened to tourists in 2009 and has seen exponential development since then. Since visitors have wanted to stay overnight for the peace and to see the beauty of this place, some of homestays and guest houses that have come up. There are a few places to see like Natural freezer, View Point, Polo ground, Monastery, a few of Mosques, and more.

It is believed that it’s not the places but the people which makes your visit memorable. This is what happens in Turtuk. The children will get a photo clicked with you in exchange of a candy that you can buy for them from the local shops. You can experience Balti culture here and savour Balti cuisine at one of the few cafes over here. People have stories to tell from the 1999 Kargil war as well, when villagers were disturbed again. Most people fled from the area apart from a few elders who stayed in the Mosques to guard it. As of today they live in peace and are happy to host tourists and share their infinite stories.

While you are in Ladakh, keep these quick tips in mind.